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The EuroTraveler
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I am the EuroTraveler, a travel writer and an aspiring world traveler who hopes to experience and journal the many cultures of Europe. The EuroTraveler is my main travel journal of all the fascinating places we visited in Europe to date. I also have sister blogs, "EuroImpressions" - a showcase of spectacular moments captured in my photo journals and "EuroDestinations" - a visionary journal that hightlights all of the exciting European destinations that I plan to visit. I hope you enjoy these portals unto the world and hope you discover something unexpected and wondrous! If you have something to share, please do. Be sure to check out the various links in the columns that feature news from the other "Euro" blogs as well as resources to help you plan your next European holiday. Your virtual journey awaits...arrivederci!
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30 May 2009

Driving in Italy -- The EuroTraveler goes for a ride under the Tuscan sun

To live "under the Tuscan Sun" is a life-long dream and on this journey from Florence to Montepulciano, we got a real taste of the Tuscan countryside and experienced life as France Mayes describes in her memoirs that collectively form the basis for her world renowned book and movie, one of my personal favorites! To tell the truth, the very thought of driving on foreign roads scared me to death because of how fast the cars travel the narrow roads that wind their way through the Tuscan hills. However, I am happy to report that my fears did not get the best of me and we were off!

In preparation of the road-trip, we actually booked our little Opal, standard shift, months before we left home to ensure we would have a car available for our journey south. We would have preferred an automatic, but they didn't have one available so although I've driven a standard shift for years, the thought of driving on the steep hills made me a little nervous not to mention how inconvenient it was going to be as well.

In the morning, we called to confirm and were delighted when we found that an automatic Mercedes had just been returned, a hard commodity to come by in Italy, so we told them to hold it for us. After a very short taxi ride from our villa to the Avis car rental on the edge of the Arno River, we checked in, got our keys, a few maps and some great advice from the representative about what else to see while traveling to Montepulciano. We were on our way!


With a still slightly nervous hand, I turned on the ignition, heart still pounding, and drove out of the garage. This is it, we're driving in Italy. I couldn't believe it. We found our way out of Florence and crossed over the A-1 highway, and arrived on SR2, our country roadway that would take us through the winding hills and landscapes of Tuscany. Montepulciano is about 1 ¼ hour to 1 ½ hours south if you take the super highway, A-1, however, I couldn't see justification for renting a car and driving down a highway to miss all the scenery which was the very reason why we wanted to drive in the first place. So needless to say, we took the back roads all the way and what a journey it turned out to be!


Driving south, we followed the two-lane roadway through the Tuscan countryside. With so many wonderful and ancient cities to explore, we wanted to stop and visit each one but we knew one day was never going to be enough to see it all properly so we chalked it up to our next visit to Italy when we would rent a villa in southern Tuscany and drive around for a week. There we were and I still couldn't believe we were really driving around Italy. The last time we were here, we would have never dreamed of driving our way but this was truly an adventure, the freedom to explore what we wanted and for as long as we wanted without the time constraints of a tour guide or a jam-packed bus. The countryside was ours for the taking and we were going to savor every moment!

Stopping along the way every now and then, I grabbed my camera to capture the scenery I couldn't let escape. Neatly plowed fields where the sunflowers were just harvested, rows upon rows of olive groves and vineyards offering their bountiful harvests, and hillsides with winding roads bordered with Cyprus trees that lead to hilltop farmhouses warmly lit by the golden Tuscan sunlight. Up ahead in the distance, Siena, perched high atop a hill with its Duomo and campanile stretching to the clouds. That's another trip another day. Of course I had to stop and take a picture or two of the city. This was all so incredible. Oh Tuscany, how I long to become part of this world!



After being on the road for nearly two hours, and having to stop for directions because there were no signs, no roadway markers, nothing to indicate what road we were driving on, we could finally see the city of Montepulciano rising above the hilltops. We made it.

You'll have to read my next posting for our adventure in Montepulciano. For now, I need to impart some advice. The roads in Italy, at least the ones we drove on, were not marked very clearly. You must keep your eyes open at all times and pay attention to the posts with all of the blue-arrow signs labeled and pointing in the direction of your destination. As long as you continue to see these signs, you know you're heading in the right direction. Don't bother looking for road signs, there aren't any. There may come a time when you fail to see your destination, however, don't panic. Stop by a local store, get out your translation guide and ask for help. The Italians are extremely friendly and willing to offer their help despite the fact that many of them living out in the country do not speak English. Thankfully, we had to do this only once but thank God we were only about a kilometer or two away. Oh, that reminds me, speed limits and speedometers are metric which is cool because the speed limit is 90, kph that is.

Happy motoring.

Next stop: Montepulciano!

Sphere: Related Content

25 March 2009

The EuroTraveler's Journey to the Florence Baptistery and Through the "Gates Of Paradise"

Located just outside the front doors of the Florence Duomo, is a weathered old building, octagonal in shape and Romanesque in design that beckons tourists to come and discover its rich history and inner beauty. Literally a diamond in the rough, upon closer inspection, you'll discover bronze doorways that glisten in the Florentine sunshine and contained within its eight walls, the brilliance of gold shimmering down from the heavens! But what is this place? It is the Baptistery of St. John or the Battistero di San Giovanni and it has stood upon this ground for over 1000 years!

Lesser known for its rich history that dates back to the 4th and 5th centuries, the building we see today was consecrated in 1059 as a temple for Jesus, the Prince of Peace. Before that, a structure built in the 9th century stood here to honor Mars, the god of war. War and Peace…And even before that, there is evidence of earlier baptisteries dating back to the 4th century. How incredible is that? Also, at the time of consecration, a Roman cemetery actually surrounded the Baptistery filled with sarcophagi used by the prominent Florentine families. And, upon the exterior walls, there are granite pilasters that are believed to be from the Roman Forum in Florence that stood in the area known today as the Piazza della Republicca.

Ah, but it is the "Gates of Paradise" that adorn the doors on the eastern wall facing the Duomo, that make the Baptistery an attraction unto itself and the reason that tourists swarm this particular side. Named by Michelangelo because of their sheer magnificence and brilliance, the Gates of Paradise were completed in 1452 by Lorenzo Ghiberti. They were the result of a contest for a commission in which Ghiberti competed against Brunelleschi, the renowned architect who designed the dome structure for the Duomo. The panels, ten in all, represent scenes from the Old Testament and each is a real tribute to the mastery of relief by Ghiberti. He introduced a new technique where successive scenes appear simultaneously in the same panel and he also applied perspective, a relatively new technique at the time that was originally introduced by none other than Brunelleschi. In one of the panels, "Jacob and Esau," Ghiberti even sculpts a self-portrait, showing a balding man about age 60. He even signs the panel in relief as well. Because of damaging erosion, vandalism and floods, replicas replaced the original panels which were then moved to the Museo dell'Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore in 1990. The museum lies just the east of the Duomo.

The Gates of Paradise are not the only set of ornate panels adorning doorways. Panels on the southern side, produced my Andrea Pisano in 1329, consist of 28 quatrefoil panels. Twenty of them depict the life of St. John the Baptist and the remaining eight show the eight virtues of hope, faith, charity, humility, fortitude, temperance, justice and prudence.

On the northern side, Ghiberti can be seen again but this time, he was only 21 years old when he competed in 1401 and won the commission against the likes of Brunelleschi, Donatello and others. Ironically, it took him 21 years to complete the 28 panels of which 20 depict scenes of the New Testament and the eight lower panels show four evangelists and the Church Fathers Saint Ambrose, Saint Jerome, Saint Gregory and Saint Augustine.


At the time each set of panels was completed, they were featured on the eastern doors and then moved to make way for the new.


After waiting for no time at all, we entered the Baptistery to gaze upon the heavens and appreciate the astounding mosaics that adorn the ceiling. The masterpieces are the work of Venetian craftsman during the Byzantine era or the early 13th century. Without going into too much detail, the focal point is Christ in the Last Judgment where He is surrounded by his Angels of Judgment. Souls of the saved appear at Christ's right hand and those of the damned, at His left. Other sections depict the Choirs of Angels (Thrones, Dominations and Powers), stories of Genesis, stories of Joseph, stories of St. John the Baptist and finally stories of Mary and Christ. Surrounding the figures and what gives the ceiling its shimmering brilliance, is the glass with goldleaf painted on the back. Florence spared no expense. There is a lot to see at ground level as well but I will let you discover that for yourself. Check out this virtual tour. This site is incredible and you can see everything. Be sure to click on both windows at the bottom of the screen so you can change between exterior and interior. Pan around and have fun!



But the most amazing part of my journey to the Baptistery was how the experience affected me spiritually. Upon entry, we received a little brochure about the Baptistery and included was a little anecdote that provided a history of the building and why most baptisteries are 8-sided buildings. All of this was complete news to me and affected me so profoundly, that I will forever remember my moments here. Baptisteries as we all know were/are a place to be christened, but also, these eight-sided buildings represent the "eight days of man." When I read this, I thought to myself, the eight days of man? Well, after reading on, I discovered that we all know the 7 days of man from Genesis in which God created heaven and earth but what I didn't know was that on the 8th day, when we are baptized, we enter into "paradise" or into eternity with God; eternal glory, love and light everlasting. From this moment, our 8th day extends forever! How glorious! How moving! How wonderful!

I just had to run back to my journal and write all of this down so I would never forget and now I impart my wonderful news to all of you. If you remember, earlier in this posting, I mentioned that the Gates of Paradise were coined by Michelangelo, however if you think about it, isn't the Baptistery itself the manifestation of the Gates of Paradise where you enter into the 8th day of our Lord, into "Paradise" for eternity? To this day, it is not known which meaning Michelangelo intended when he spoke of them.

As you can see, the Baptistery is truly worth a visit. Such a small building so often overlooked, speaks volumes of history that span over a thousand years. It offers so much to discover and enjoy. Bask in its glory on your next visit to Florence and once inside, gaze unto the heavens where you'll find Christ Himself waiting to welcome you through His Gates of Paradise, into your 8th day, into an eternity of everlasting love and light.

To learn more about this magnificent place, I found another great resource, the Wikipedia. There, you will find all the facts and descriptions of the three doorways, their panels, descriptions of the interior mosaics, marble and statuary, and pics of them all too!

Ciao from Florence! Sphere: Related Content

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